Thursday 28 February 2013

Working on the stand for FMP

After my designer research I began to think about the shapes that have been used to create their designs. I began using some of my inspirations for my final major project of an oriental fan and the parasol, so using a half circle and a full circle. Using a heavy weight cord fabric I experimented by cutting randomly half circle shapes from this fabric in various sizes and seeing what I could create by using only these shapes by working on the stand.



Half circles I used 


 By manipulating the half circles by folding them from each point to create a full circle and building this up by layering various sizes together to create volume.



Using the largest of the half circles to cascade from the back to the front of the mannequin


Mixing a light weight sheer polyester (just to experiment with) however cutting a full circle and cutting a straight line to the circle centre, which makes the circle easier to manipulate. Also experimenting to see which weight fabric works best to create the structure that I would like for my designs.


 Manipulating by pinning the polyester sheer circle in order to create sculptures of new 3 dimensional shapes.





The above 3 images I have developed by layering and carefully thinking about placement and volume and what this what do to the silhouette. I really love these, I think they work really well and create interesting elements to the design.


Developing this look further by altering the placement of the circle piece on the bodice.


More manipulation to the half circles by creating 3 dimensional shapes on the front bodice



Manipulating the sheer light weight polyester to create a floral shape, however I think the sheer fabric is too light weight to achieve the structure that I would like.



Using 4 of the half circles of the same size and repeating and pinning onto the bodice meeting at the waistline and repeating below the waistline...further this design idea by then adding a draped heavy weight velvet piece in the shape of a much larger half circle.

Wednesday 27 February 2013

Inspiration for Final Major Project

For my final major project, I wanted to carry on with the oriental theme that my pre collection had development into.

It was coming up to the china new year so there was a lot of inspiration around, therefore I went on a trip to London to gather some inspiring images.

I had also recently watching Memoirs of a Geisha which featured a lot of inspiring oriental elements, the kimonos in gorgeous fabric, the florals, parasols and prints.


Chinese New Year window in Harrods - Oriental printed white and gold plates



I also visited the V&A which has a very large display of oriental kimonos, pottery, fabrics, bowls, plates all having amazing prints.



Inspirational imagery from the movie Memoirs of a Geisha  - I love the parasol and the structure inside the parasol.


Kimono prints and belts


Cherry Blossom floral and large scale print


Floral and bird twin vases from the oriental display at the V&A


Developing my research further, I looked into oriental floral prints from books


I came across some oriental floral paintings which I found very inspiring, I really like that these florals that look as though they are 100 years old, you can see the brush stroke, having that hand produced look, I love this.



I love the tonal affect within this mustard yellow and red tulip floral painting.


Monday 25 February 2013

Inspiration for FMP - Couture Dior - John Galliano

My all time favourite collection......Couture Dior's Fall 2010 Collection from John Galliano...

Galliano's collection is an inspiration for my final major project, I know for my collection I would like to create a collection of evening gowns with a dramatic impact yet beautiful and sexy.



Galliano's designs are absolutely stunning, I love the amounts of fabric featured on this design yet it is still feminine and sexy. Also the flash of the close up large scale floral print, with the subtle hints of red against the red and black bulks of fabric. 


Within this collection the bold colours that are contrasted together with either block colour, a print and another contrasting colour work so beautifully.
I alos love the huge amount of fabric used on each look to create this volume within the skirts and having a fitted bodice which compensates the scale of the skirts.


This collection has been inspired by flowers and I love how Galliano has taken it to a whole new level by creating this stunning flower pieces from tulle and silk which look very realistic.


Amazing, amazing, amazing.....The huge amounts of tule layered together with the draped tonal dyed heavy satin silk repeating around the waistline of the skirt and with the narrow bright orange belt that emphasis's the smallness of the waist that compensates with the scale of the layers of fabric on the skirt.


Thursday 21 February 2013

Toile - Development


Process of making the dress design for my Pre collection - toile.

The dress is being produced in calico and having a saddle leather harness, the dress design was of a very basic shape and having circle attachment pieces over the entire full length skirt.

The overall design has a feminine yet masculine concept, I love creating contrasting elements that would not necessarily work.

Creating fullness within the skirt with layers and layers of sheer organza and then having the masculine saddle leather harness contrasts against the light and airy fabric of the organza.




Design of toile


                                       All pattern pieces of the toile ready to be sewn together

       
                 Attaching the first circle piece starting from the bottom and working my way up.



 As the circles pieces are attached the volume of the skirt starts mounting to create the volume that I had          designed.


                                    Adding in a flat skirt piece to break up the layers of circles


                     The completed full length skirt ready to be attached to the front and back bodice


 Making the saddle leather harness, which was toiled before making. I used masking tape to help keep the leather panels in place as the leather was too thick to pin.

 The two pieces of the harness ready to be sewn in the centre front and have a zip fastening in the centre back


Back of the harness on the dress toile

Wednesday 13 February 2013

Pure London 2013


Pure London

A Buyers destination for womenswear, childrenswear, lingerie, accessories of all the current trends that forthcoming season.

Held in Olympia within two floors, also a catwalk and presentations of new design ideas and trends. The ground floor area was huge, each business had their own stand of all different sizes and marketed towards mid-to high end markets. Some stands really stood out with the design and layout, this was really good as I am on the Graduate Fashion week stand group within our class this allowed me to gather ideas and inspiration for our stand at GFW 2013. 



Use of mannequins and large tables for accessories

Wallpaper background on stand walls

Other ideas by using old style trunks and vegetable crates

This stand was one of my favourites. The stand was quite big, it did not look like a typical shop stand which I think is why it worked, it was very open plan and allowed a lot of walking space.

Small lamp shades and crystal beads hanging from a leaf covered backdrop
LOVE this idea

Fireplace in the centre of the stand walls, wallpapered background and variety of textile circles with mini mannequins on the fireplace. Iron garden chairs and tables with tea cups and plates....this stand was very well thought out and planned, there was a lot happening but it was not overpowering.